I wanted to go on Via Transilvanica for a very long time. I liked the idea of walking from one side of Romania to the other. The entire trail is from Putna to Portile de Fier, about 1400 km, but now there is a new section made that goes to Brasov, so now it’s about 1600 km.
The way I understood Via Transilvanica, so this is how I saw it before doing the 10 days on it, so not how the project is described by the founders but how it’s described by me: it’s a long trail, a multi-day hike. It’s a way to connect communes and promote tourism in Romania, in places where maybe otherwise people would not go. A way to help people have extra income in places that are maybe otherwise forgotten, and a way for people to connect, connect with yourself, connect with nature, connect with other people. In just a few words, I would say Via Transilvanica is about promoting Romania, nature, and tourism in small villages that maybe otherwise would not be visited.
I did think, though, that Via Transilvanica would go from village to village but through forests and hills, basically through nature, on paths that are accessible by foot, not by car. I did not think for a second that you could do Via on a bicycle, so that means my expectations were not quite well set. I also thought we would encounter shepherds and their dogs every day, and this was one of my biggest fears for this trip, as I am terrified by the idea of multiple dogs running towards us while barking and surrounding us until the shepherd calls them back, or us having to pass a sheep herd.
But that’s how I like to experience nature, on a path that is made for humans, that is wild, that is not accessible for cars or motorized vehicles. And because that’s how I like to explore nature, I was disappointed that we had to walk so much on roads, on asphalt, on gravel, on forest roads, where from time to time cars would pass by us. It’s just not the way I like to explore nature.
I hope that maybe they will create alternatives for the sections that have too much road, where you could go deeper into nature. Even if that means more elevation gain, and the path being harder, I wish I would have that option, to only be on roads when I’m in villages, not in between.
Ok. So after this little rant, let’s start with how Via Transilvanica went for me.
We finally went on the trail because of a medical study, where you had to do a minimum of 10 days and a minimum of 150 km on Via Transilvanica. So this study was the final push for us to do a part of the trail. We decided to start from the beginning of the trail, from Putna. Our plan was to have 10 or 11 days on Via, depending on whether we would do Bistrita Bargaului – Dorolea in one day and then Dorolea – Bistrita on another, or do Bistrita Bargaului – Bistrita in a single day.
In the end, this is how our days looked:
Day 1: Putna – Sucevita
Day 2: Sucevita – Vatra Moldovitei
Day 3: Vatra Moldovitei – Sadova
Day 4: Sadova – Fundu Moldovei
Day 5: Fundu Moldovei – Cabana Gigi Ursu
Day 6: Cabana Gigi Ursu – Dorna Candrenilor
Day 7: Dorna Candrenilor – Lunca Ilvei
Day 8: Lunca Ilvei – Tasuleasa Social
Day 9: Tasuleasa Social – Bistrita Bargaului
Day 10: Bistrita Bargaului – Dorolea – Bistrita
*Garmin creates some artifacts when I’m on a break, so the km aren’t quite accurate. According to the guide, we should have done about 224 km.
Now, let’s talk a bit about how it went.
Day 0. We had to travel from our home city, Cluj Napoca, to Putna. This meant taking the train or going with a FlixBus. We decided to go by train, as the FlixBus would take us to Suceava and then we’d have to take a train or two buses to Putna. The train would also take us to Suceava, and from there we’d take a second train to Putna. After a very long delay, we finally got on the train, and after the second train’s delay, we finally got to Putna, making it day 1.
Via Transilvanica, Bucovina, day 1: Putna – Sucevita
A few stats: about 17 km, about 350 m elevation gain, 7 hours with breaks. Putna stamp from Putna Monastery and Sucevita stamp from Sucevita Monastery.
A shorter first day, mostly on forest roads, with heavy packs and no rest from the train working against us. Beautiful nature, both monasteries visited, and one small disaster with my phone screen. We camped at a campsite still under construction, with working toilets and showers.
Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 1 article.
Via Transilvanica, Bucovina, day 2: Sucevita – Vatra Moldovitei
A few stats: about 22 km, about 1167 m elevation gain, about 9:30 hours with breaks. We took the Ciumarna stamp from near borna 30, and the Vatra Moldovitei stamp from the bar across the street from La Banditi.
A tougher climb, lots of berries, a first cow herd with guard dogs that did their job without bothering us, and a small fall on gravel. We camped at La Banditi, with two very sweet dogs, and this was the day the french fries craving began.
Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 2 article.
Via Transilvanica, Bucovina, day 3: Vatra Moldovitei – Sadova
A few stats: about 24 km, about 1032 m elevation gain, about 9:30 hours with breaks. We took the Sadova stamp from Pensiunea Alvy Iezer.
My favorite day of the whole trip. A long, tiring climb through forest and pasture, but the kind of day that makes you want to come back and do it again, friendly cows, gorgeous shepherd dogs, and one of the warmest interactions of the trip with a family living on the mountain. We camped in a locals courtyard.
Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 3 article.
Via Transilvanica, Bucovina, day 4: Sadova – Fundu Moldovei
A few stats: about 10 km, about 330 m elevation gain, about 3:30 hours with breaks (from Garmin data). We got the Fundu Moldovei stamp from Braserie FM.
A short, easy, relaxing day by comparison, breakfast, a false alarm on wildlife, and an afternoon of actual rest at the campsite. We camped at de Vuurplaats.
Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 4 article.
Via Transilvanica, Bucovina, day 5: Fundu Moldovei – Cabana Gigi Ursu
A few stats: about 29 km, about 1005 m elevation gain, about 9 hours with breaks (from Garmin data). We took the Pasul Mestecanis stamp from Pensiunea Luceafarul.
The only rainy day of the trip, and the day I really started noticing how much of this route is road rather than trail. A nice stretch walking between Christmas trees was the highlight. We camped at Cabana Gigi Ursu, with two dogs and a cat.
Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 5 article.
Via Transilvanica, Bucovina, day 6: Cabana Gigi Ursu – Dorna Candrenilor
A few stats: about 31 km, about 820 m elevation gain, about 9 hours with breaks (from Garmin data). We took the Vatra Dornei stamp from Pensiunea Elenuca and the Poiana Negrii stamp from Casuta bunicilor.
A strange start with a trapped bird and a dog that didn’t want to let us go, then a steep climb by a ski slope that wasn’t as bad as expected. Back on the road again after that. We camped at Pensiunea Lena, with excellent jam waiting the next morning.
Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 6 article.
Via Transilvanica, Bucovina, day 7: Dorna Candrenilor – Lunca Ilvei
A few stats: about 36 km, about 612 m elevation gain, about 11 hours with breaks (from Garmin data). We took the Lunca Ilvei stamp from La Avram.
The day with too little nature and too much asphalt, plus a funeral and a boar encounter that had us whistling and shaking the bear bell. We camped at La Avram, which made up for the day with genuine hospitality.
Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 7 article.
Via Transilvanica, Highlands, day 8: Lunca Ilvei – Tasuleasa Social, version B
A few stats: about 18 km, about 800 m elevation gain, about 10:30 hours with breaks. We took the Tasuleasa Social stamp from Tasuleasa Social.
A steep, road-heavy day redeemed by Poiana lui Galan and a warm welcome from the Galan family. Arriving at Tasuleasa Social the night before their marathon event was a much colder welcome. We camped at Tasuleasa Social.
Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 8 article.
Via Transilvanica, Highlands, day 9: Tasuleasa Social – Bistrita Bargaului
A few stats: about 25 km, about 565 m elevation gain, about 8:30 hours with breaks. We took the Bistrita Bargaului stamp from Atelier de paine traditionala.
A long, sunny day that crossed paths with the Tasuleasa half-marathon, lovely encouragement from strangers and runners, one rude moment from race volunteers, and a good meal at Valea Strajii. We camped at Atelier de paine traditionala, easily one of the warmest hosts of the trip.
Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 9 article.
Via Transilvanica, Highlands, day 10: Bistrita Bargaului – Dorolea – Bistrita
A few stats: about 33 km, about 762 m elevation gain, about 10:30 hours with breaks. We took the Dorolea stamp from Pensiunea Elis and the Bistrita stamp from Amaretto Caffe.
The final push, more road than we wanted, a warning about shepherd dogs that didn’t amount to much, a sheep herd, a heartwarming offer of chocolate biscuits from a family in Dorolea, and a very welcome stranger who wished us well right when we needed it. We finished with a burger and fries and a hotel bed instead of a tent, then took the train home the next morning.
Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 10 article.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much did you pay for camping?
We paid between 35 and 85 lei (two adults and a tent). There were also places where we camped for free. When we camped for free, we would eat at that location, so we’d contribute in some financial way as well. If the place didn’t serve food and we camped for free, we’d leave some money so it would be fair to both parties.
How much did you paid for food?
For breakfast we paid between 30 and 40 lei per person. For lunch, 50 lei per person. And for dinner, between 30 and 50 lei per person.
There was also one place where we ate and could leave as much as we felt was fair.
What did you packed?
Too much food. The plan from home was to do this on a lower budget, so we wanted to camp with our own tent and bring our own food. We did camp, but we also bought food along the way.
So we packed our tent, sleeping pads, sleeping bags, and a tent hammer. We had a gas canister, a pot, two forks, one knife, two mugs, and lots of food and snacks. We had 2 medical kits, one with bandages and one with pills. We had sunscreen, as well as mosquito and tick spray. We had deodorant and natural soap.
We each had a water bladder as well as a water canister, our rain jackets, and 3 sets of clothing. Headlamps. A notebook, a book, and the Via Transilvanica booklet to collect the stamps. A poop shovel and toilet paper, toothpaste and toothbrushes. Wet wipes.
Two bear sprays. Dog treats. Treking poles.
Our phones, a camera, a charger, 3 power banks to charge our devices, and extra batteries for the headlamps.
I don’t think we had anything else.