All posts by : stupidnature

Part of the Carpații Orientali (the Eastern Carpathians), Carpații Maramureșului și Bucovinei, Muntii Rodnei

---

TL;DR

A 3-day, ~50 km point-to-point traverse through Muntii Rodnei (Eastern Carpathians), starting and ending in Borsa, crossing Vf. Pietrosul (2303 m) and Vf. Galatului (2048 m), with wild camping along the way and a rhododendron bloom worth timing your hike around in June.

Trail Facts

Trail type	Point-to-point (loops back to Borsa via road on day 3)
Distance	50.14 km total
Duration	3 days, 2 nights
Elevation gain	~2,783 m ascent / ~2,749 m descent
Difficulty	Moderate to hard (long climbs, high altitude, some rocky sections)
Trail marking	Blue (day 1 & part of day 2) → Red (day 2) → Blue (Taul Stiol detour)
Highest point	Vf. Pietrosul, 2303 m
Start / End	Borsa (parking near the Rehabilitation Hospital, Sanzienelor Street)
Camping	Wild camping: Tarnita La Cruce / Taul Rebra (night 1), Stana Runcul Stiolului (night 2)
Water sources	Spring at Refugiul La Carti; spring near the plateau before Refugiul din Saua Gargalau; close to Stana Runcului Stiol
Best time to hike	June, for rhododendron bloom (snow patches still possible at altitude)
Hiked in	19 – 21 June 2026

Day-by-Day Plan

Day	Route	Distance	Ascent	Descent
1	Borsa → Lacul Iezer → Vf Pietrosul → Tarnita La Cruce → Refugiul La Carti	17.68 km	1,874 m	692 m
2	Refugiul La Carti → Lacul Cailor → Vf Gargalau → Taul Stiol → Cascada Stiol → Cascada Cailor → Cabana Stana Runcul Stiol	19.88 km	902 m	1,334 m
3	Cabana Stana Runcul Stiol → Borsa	12.58 km	7 m	723 m

GPX files:

• Day 1: Borsa – Lacul Iezer – Vf Pietrosul – Refugiul La Carti
• Day 2: Refugiul La Carti – Cascada Cailor – Cabana Stana Runcul Stiol
• Day 3: Cabana Stana Runcul Stiol – Borsa

These GPX tracks are close to our route but not an exact match to what we hiked

---

This was a 3 day hike.

First day was supposed to be Borsa – Lacul Iezer – Vf Pietrosul – Refugiul La Carti (we camped earlier as it got pretty late in the day, since we had a late start from our home city).)

The second day: Camping site – Refugiul La Carti – Taul Stiol – Stana Runcul Stiolului.

The third day: Stana Runcul Stiolului – Cascada Cailor – Statiunea Borsa – Borsa.

Day one. We had left our home city a bit late in the day, so we got to the start of the trail only at about 12 pm. From how I made the GPX, we were supposed to hike for 9 hours with breaks until we arrived at Refugiul La Carti. We had our tent with us, so we knew that if we took longer than planned, we’d be fine, as long as we could find a good camping spot.

We parked the car close to the Rehabilitation Hospital Borsa, I think on Sanzienelor Street. If you’re using the hospital as a reference point, you’ll find parking on a parallel street.

The start is on some streets in Borsa, and you can see the Rodnei Mountains in the distance. When we went, in June, it was still hot, so we were so happy when we were able to take some breaks in the shade once we started the trail section in the forest. We were following the blue trail markers.

There is a lot of uphill all the way to the summit, Vf Pietrosul. From time to time we were able to look back and see the city below, and see how much we’d already hiked.

The trail is well maintained and isn’t hard in terms of the surface you’re walking on. It’s hard from the altitude difference point of view.

I knew that at this time of year you could see rhododendron in the Romanian mountains, but I didn’t know they’d be on our trail, at least not on this part of it.

At the place where we were supposed to pitch our tent on the second day, the woman running the accommodation invited us to join them on a nearby summit in search of the rhododendron. But since we weren’t going to reach the accommodation until late in the evening, we politely declined, hoping we’d still see the flowers ourselves once we got to that part of the trail.

So you can imagine my excitement when we saw the rhododendron at Lake Iezer. It was absolutely amazing. I’ll admit I hadn’t researched the flower at all, so everything I knew came from videos I’d seen on Instagram. I was only about 90% sure this was the same flower so many people hike into the mountains to see in real life.

Lake Iezer is supposed to look like the map of Romania, and it actually does. Yes, when you’re close to the lake, at the bottom of it, so to speak, it’s not that easy to see the shape, but once you get to the summit, you can see it clearly. It’s a really cool experience to have.

Besides the rhododendron, there were many other flowers that were so lovely.

Close to Lake Iezer, there’s a weather station as well as a camping area, so you can pitch a tent there if you want to.

We arrived at Lake Iezer at about 4 pm.

We took a nice, longer break here to rest and enjoy the nature. The sky did turn a bit and got darker.

It was also interesting to see that there were still patches of snow high up in the mountains, even in June.

The summit isn’t difficult, since the trail is in good condition, but because of the altitude difference we did take breaks in order to rest and be able to keep going.

As we got closer to the summit, fog surrounded us and made everything more mystical and beautiful.

We arrived at the summit, Vf. Pietrosul, 2303 m, at about 6:30 pm. And the view was… well, foggy. But what was interesting was the little window in the clouds where we could see the hill in front of us, and sometimes even the city of Borsa down below. So interesting to see it in real life.

There is a structure up at the summit, kind of like a shelter, but unfortunately some people have used it as a trash can, so it’s in a pretty bad state.

From here we were supposed to head to the shelter, Refugiul La Carti. On the way there, we saw so many amazing views, valleys and summits, little lakes, flowers, small patches of snow, absolutely amazing. And when the sun came out from behind the clouds again, the views got even more magical.

And I kept thinking, oh my god, how is this real? How can it be so beautiful? How can the mountains be so pink? Photos don’t do justice to how amazing this hike was. You just have to be there.

Because it was getting late, we decided to stop at the camping place called Tarnita La Cruce. When we got there, we realized we had to go a bit downhill to Taul Rebra, since that’s where the sign for the camping site actually was. That way we were also sheltered from the wind and had access to running water.

We got to the camping place at about 9:30 pm.

And this is where the first day ended for us. It was the first time we wild camped. Yes, this is technically a camping place, but until then we had either camped alongside a lot of other hikers, or in camping places where you pay an entrance fee and get access to all the facilities, with a fence and dogs guarding the property.

So I was a bit stressed about wild animals, and woke up a few times during the night, listening carefully, trying to figure out if what I was hearing was the wind or something else.

The morning was amazing. We got to see the sunrise a bit before 5 am, had a nice breakfast, rested a bit more, and were ready to leave our camping spot at about 9 am.

On this day, day 2, we were supposed to get to Stana Runcul Stiolului, where we’d camp, and see Taul Stiol along the way.

But first we had to get to the shelter La Carti for water, since there was a spring nearby. For this we switched to the red trail markers.

Once again the views were absolutely amazing. We were hiking on narrow trails surrounded by rhododendron. And once again I kept thinking, how is this real? It’s just something you have to see with your own eyes.

Plus seeing the ridges, the valleys, the little ponds, all the flowers, made this day an amazing one.

Apparently I don’t have a photo from the La Carti shelter, so I don’t know exactly how long it took us to get there, but it was somewhere between 10 am and 11:27 am.

Here we also met a shepherd with his goats, and had a nice talk with him at the spring, since he’d also come to get water and we were still there filling up our bladders and bottles.

We then continued on the trail and passed close by Vf Laptele (Aniesu) Mare, 2167 m, we just passed by it, didn’t summit it. We crossed Saua Laptelui, still admiring the ridges and the pink flowers.

And just like that, we were at another summit, Vf Galatului, 2048 m, at about 3:30 pm.

We were still on the red trail markers, and I thought we’d see Horses Lake, but it’s not visible from the trail. You can take a detour if you want to see it, but we didn’t. We took a longer break around that area before continuing on the trail to the shelter, Refugiul din Saua Gargalau. Before reaching this shelter, there’s a plateau that’s a camping area with a spring.

We arrived at the shelter at about 5:30 pm, and from here we were headed to Taul Stiol, on the blue trail markers.

We saw it from above and decided not to go down close to the lake, since there were people around, and I even saw some tents there. We didn’t have swimsuits with us anyway, and we were tired, so we were fine with just seeing the lake from above and continuing our hike towards Stana Runcul Stiolului, where we were supposed to camp for the night.

We saw the lake at about 6 pm and got to the camp at about 8:30 pm.

The third day, we started early. I was so excited to see the waterfall. We’d seen it before, back in, I think, 2018, and it’s my favorite waterfall.

So we got to Cascada Cailor (Horses Waterfall) at about 6:40 am, had our coffee, and took a nice long rest there.

We stayed at the waterfall until about 8:30 am, before heading to Statiunea Borsa and then doing the 10 km along the edge of the road back to Borsa, where the car was parked.

The trail isn’t hard. There are some sections where you have to watch your footing, and a few sections that are a bit steeper than I remembered from last time. There are also some rivers to cross, but they’re shallow, so all good.

Close to the exit from the forest, we ran into some pigs. And did you know pigs can eat an entire human body? Even the teeth? That was the only thing I could think about while we were near the pigs.

And after a grueling 10 km in the hot sun, along the edge of the road, with and without a sidewalk, we got back to the car a bit before 12 pm.

FAQ

Is the Muntii Rodnei traverse (Lacul Iezer – Vf Pietrosul – Vf Galatului) hard?
It’s moderate to hard. The trail surface itself is well maintained and not technical, but the altitude difference (over 2,700 m of ascent across 3 days) and the length of the climbs make it demanding, especially on day 1 up to Vf. Pietrosul.

Do you need to camp to do this hike?
Yes, unless you plan it differently than we did. This is a 3-day, 2-night route with no return to a village in between, so you’ll either need to wild camp (as we did) or book a stay at one of the mountain huts/shelters along the way, such as Refugiul La Carti or Cabana Stana Runcul Stiol.

Is there water on the trail?
Yes. There’s a spring at Refugiul La Carti and another near the plateau before Refugiul din Saua Gargalau. We refilled our bottles and bladders at both.

When is the best time to hike this trail?
June is ideal if you want to catch the rhododendron in bloom around Lacul Iezer. Be aware that snow patches can still be present at higher altitude even in June.

Where does the trail start and end?
Both the start and the end are in Borsa. We parked near the Rehabilitation Hospital on Sanzienelor Street; if you’re using the hospital as a landmark, look for parking on a parallel street.

Can you see Lake Iezer’s Romania-shaped outline from the trail?
Yes, but not from lake level. You need to be higher up, closer to the summit, to actually see that the lake resembles the map of Romania.

What gear do we recommend for a trek like this?
Here’s what we used on this hike:

• Water reservoir: Forclaz MT500 2L (also available in 3L)
• Backpack (men’s): Simond MT900 Symbium 50+10L, with rain cover
• Backpack (women’s): Simond MT500 Air 55+10L
• Sleeping bag: Simond MT500 trekking sleeping bag, 5°C
• Shoes: Quechua SH500 Mountain
• Sleeping mat: Simond izoprene trekking mat, 180 x 50 cm, MT100
• Trekking pole: Simond MT500 All Season, 4-season, brown/black
• Trekking pole: Simond MT500 Antisoc, shock-absorbing, blue
• Boots: Salomon Quest 4 GTX, waterproof leather with Gore-Tex
• Tent: Simond MT500 dome trekking tent, 3-person, black/green

Part of the Carpații Occidentali (the Western Carpathians), Munții Apuseni (Apuseni Mountains), Muntele Mare

Parking: You can check this Google Maps link to see where you can park. It’s not the only option, you can drive further up the road to be closer to the red dot marking if you want. Both times we went, we parked the car at Punct Gastronomic Local Scarita Belioara.

Trails: The loop trail starts a bit further up the road from the restaurant where we parked our car. You’ll see a panel with info about the reservation, as well as the arrows. Both times we did the loop starting from the left side. On the left side, the rocky part is bigger, so it’s easier to climb up than to go down on it.

After you pass the arrows and the panel, shortly after, you’ll see a big wooden gate. It has the red dot marking on it, so you know you’re on the right track. Now the climb starts, it begins on a little clearing, then through the forest, then on the rocky bit, then back inside the forest, with a bit of clearing before going back in the forest.

In this last part of the forest, you’ll start to see and hear a river, it’s very small, so no worries about it. After this forest section, you come out into a clearing with flowers, where the water source is. You’ll see the arrow letting you know where the trail goes up above the hill.

After this clearing, you go back into the forest, and the whole time you’ll be going uphill. When you get out of the forest, you’re on a plateau. There’s such a pretty view here. Continuing on this plateau, you’ll end up on the ridge, with even nicer views, it’s worth taking breaks if you can, to admire the view.

After this, past the ridge, the descent begins, first through the forest, then through a burned section of forest and a bit of open space, going down the trail in serpentines, until you’re back inside the forest.

From there, you end up in a field, where you can see old traditional houses, as well as Cosul Boiului on the cliff slope.

After the field, you end up back in the forest, and you stay in the forest all the way back to the start of the loop. Besides the forest path, you’ll also have to descend along a dried-up riverbed.

GPX: You can find the trail on Muntii Nostri here.

When did we do this trail? August 2026.

Trail Facts

Trail type	loop
Distance	~9 km
Duration	6 hours with breaks
Elevation gain	~900 m
Difficulty	moderate (some rocky sections)
Trail marking	red dot marker
Highest point	Vf. Scarita, [1365 m]
Access	Punct Gastronomic Local Scarita Belioara
Water sources	There is one on the trail, I just don’t like how the water looks, since it comes straight from the ground. Maybe it’s safe, but we didn’t try it.
Hiked in	August 2026
GPX	Download here (from the 3 dots, on the bottom left side of the screen, choose Download GPX file)

Circuit Scarita Belioara

We did this trail twice, once in August 2025 and now in August 2026.

This is one of those trails that stays with you because of how beautiful it is. I do want to hike it in different seasons as well.

I’d say this trail isn’t recommended if it’s raining or snowing, because of the rocky bits you have to climb up and then down.

This was the first trail we did with this much elevation gain, back in 2025.

This time, we also had such a nice view on the drive there, thanks to the patches of fog we caught along the way.

Both times, we parked our car at the Punct Gastronomic Local Scarita Belioara parking space, but you can drive a bit further up the road if you want, there are a few more spots where you can park, at the edge of the road, further up.

Both times, we ate here after the hike, and I highly recommend it, the prices aren’t high (30 lei for a soup/main dish and 15 lei for a pie, if I remember correctly).

The trail itself starts a bit further up the road, where you’ll see an informational panel about the Scarita Belioara nature reserve, as well as the arrows to guide you on the trail. We took the left side both times, because there’s a rocky bit ahead that you’ll have to climb, and I think it’s easier to go uphill on it than downhill.

[image from August 2025]

You’ll know you’re on the right trail if you cross a big wooden gate. After the wooden gate, the hard part begins, a bit of steep climbing through this clearing before going inside the forest.

This part of the forest gives you a chance to catch your breath before the next sections, since the incline is very gentle here.

After this forest bit, you end up in front of the rocky climb. I don’t think it’s that difficult, there are plenty of spots to put your feet, and you can always help yourself with your hands if you need to. I also don’t think it’s close enough to the edge to feel dangerous. But I wouldn’t want to do it if the stone were wet, since I’m not sure how much grip you’d have then.

The views are absolutely amazing, so all the effort is worth it.

We’re back in the forest, but we also get a chance to catch our breath, as there’s a bit of clearing that isn’t too steep. Then we’re back on a steeper trail inside the forest again.

Up ahead, there’s a rock where we like to take a break, you can sit on it and have a snack. Here you start to hear the river, and you’ve actually already crossed it, but it’s barely there, so no need to worry.

After this forest section, we end up in a clearing, and once again we can enjoy the views. There’s a spring here, but it’s so close to the ground and so shallow that I just don’t trust it as a water source. Maybe it’s fine, I don’t know, we didn’t try it.

After the meadow, we go back into the forest, this is the last uphill stretch inside the forest. There’s still some uphill on the plateau, but then it flattens out a bit before the descent begins. It’s not a straight downhill though, there are still a few small uphill bits, but it’s mostly downhill from there.

When we came out of the forest, we ran into some cows and their owners, along with their dogs. The dogs were friendly, only two of them barked, but they were called off quickly.

The granny who was with the cows asked us if we wanted to take cover from the rain and wait a bit. We knew a storm was coming, but I thought it would arrive around 5 pm, since I’d checked the weather that morning before heading out, so plenty of time for our hike, or so I thought.

We only managed to go a little further up the plateau before the storm hit. It was about 12 pm, so much earlier than I expected. That taught me a great lesson: always listen to the people on the hills, like shepherds or cowherders, they know better than your weather app.

And second, I still don’t know exactly what to do in case of a thunderstorm. Since this was a thunderstorm, I knew the position to take if needed, and I knew we were supposed to go downhill as fast as possible, but I didn’t know where to shelter, was it okay in the forest? Was it better at the edge of the forest? Should we have kept going even in a thunderstorm?

We took cover in the forest, and it was fine, nothing happened, and then we continued on the trail and got back safely, with no storm at 5 pm after all. We got a bit more rain later on the trail, but the thunder stayed far off.

The views after the storm were absolutely amazing, so I’m glad I got to see them. I do like fog, so for me those little strips of fog were wonderful.

Because we wanted to get down as quickly as possible, so no other storm would catch up with us on Scarita Belioara, we didn’t spend much time at the edge or on the plateau, just a few photos and back on the trail.

After the edge, we entered a small patch of forest, and then came out again into the burned section of forest.

Then the descent through the serpentines begins. There are also a few rocky bits to go down, smaller than the ones we climbed on the way up, and again, there are places to put your feet, and you can always go down backwards to use your hands too.

[image from august 2025]

This time we also saw a cute little lizard on the trail.

After a bit more forest, we come out into the field where we can see some old houses, as well as Cosul Boiului, which is like a cave but also has an opening at the top, so you get a view of the sky as well as the side.

And back into the forest for the last part of the trail, where we also descend along a dried riverbed.

And don’t forget to have your well-deserved meal after the hike, at Punct Gastronomic Local Scarita Belioara. I forgot to photograph the food, but here’s a photo of their guardians.

We wanted to hike Via Transilvanica for a very long time. The idea of walking from one side of Romania to the other, on a trail built to connect communes and bring tourism to places that would otherwise stay off the map, was exactly the kind of nature and connection we were looking for.

The full trail runs from Putna to Portile de Fier, about 1400 km, and now stretches further to Brasov, closer to 1600 km. We hiked the first section, 10 days from Putna to Bistrita, about 224 km according to the official guide (Garmin logged a bit more, mostly from breaks).

Quick stats: our 10 day Via Transilvanica route

Day	Route	Distance	Elevation gain
1	Putna to Sucevita	~17 km	~350 m
2	Sucevita to Vatra Moldovitei	~22 km	~1167 m
3	Vatra Moldovitei to Sadova	~24 km	~1032 m
4	Sadova to Fundu Moldovei	~10 km	~330 m
5	Fundu Moldovei to Cabana Gigi Ursu	~29 km	~1005 m
6	Cabana Gigi Ursu to Dorna Candrenilor	~31 km	~820 m
7	Dorna Candrenilor to Lunca Ilvei	~36 km	~612 m
8	Lunca Ilvei to Tasuleasa Social (version B)	~18 km	~800 m
9	Tasuleasa Social to Bistrita Bargaului	~25 km	~565 m
10	Bistrita Bargaului to Bistrita, via Dorolea	~33 km	~762 m

The way I understood Via Transilvanica, so this is how I saw it before doing the 10 days on it, so not how the project is described by the founders but how it’s described by me: it’s a long trail, a multi-day hike. It’s a way to connect communes and promote tourism in Romania, in places where maybe otherwise people would not go. A way to help people have extra income in places that are maybe otherwise forgotten, and a way for people to connect, connect with yourself, connect with nature, connect with other people. In just a few words, I would say Via Transilvanica is about promoting Romania, nature, and tourism in small villages that maybe otherwise would not be visited.

I did think, though, that Via Transilvanica would go from village to village but through forests and hills, basically through nature, on paths that are accessible by foot, not by car. I did not think for a second that you could do Via on a bicycle, so that means my expectations were not quite well set. I also thought we would encounter shepherds and their dogs every day, and this was one of my biggest fears for this trip, as I am terrified by the idea of multiple dogs running towards us while barking and surrounding us until the shepherd calls them back, or us having to pass a sheep herd.

But that’s how I like to experience nature, on a path that is made for humans, that is wild, that is not accessible for cars or motorized vehicles. And because that’s how I like to explore nature, I was disappointed that we had to walk so much on roads, on asphalt, on gravel, on forest roads, where from time to time cars would pass by us. It’s just not the way I like to explore nature.

I hope that maybe they will create alternatives for the sections that have too much road, where you could go deeper into nature. Even if that means more elevation gain, and the path being harder, I wish I would have that option, to only be on roads when I’m in villages, not in between.

Ok. So after this little rant, let’s start with how Via Transilvanica went for me.

We finally went on the trail because of a medical study, where you had to do a minimum of 10 days and a minimum of 150 km on Via Transilvanica. So this study was the final push for us to do a part of the trail. We decided to start from the beginning of the trail, from Putna. Our plan was to have 10 or 11 days on Via, depending on whether we would do Bistrita Bargaului – Dorolea in one day and then Dorolea – Bistrita on another, or do Bistrita Bargaului – Bistrita in a single day.

In the end, this is how our days looked:

Day 1: Putna – Sucevita
Day 2: Sucevita – Vatra Moldovitei
Day 3: Vatra Moldovitei – Sadova
Day 4: Sadova – Fundu Moldovei
Day 5: Fundu Moldovei – Cabana Gigi Ursu
Day 6: Cabana Gigi Ursu – Dorna Candrenilor
Day 7: Dorna Candrenilor – Lunca Ilvei
Day 8: Lunca Ilvei – Tasuleasa Social
Day 9: Tasuleasa Social – Bistrita Bargaului
Day 10: Bistrita Bargaului – Dorolea – Bistrita

*Garmin creates some artifacts when I’m on a break, so the km aren’t quite accurate. According to the guide, we should have done about 224 km.

Now, let’s talk a bit about how it went.

Day 0. We had to travel from our home city, Cluj Napoca, to Putna. This meant taking the train or going with a FlixBus. We decided to go by train, as the FlixBus would take us to Suceava and then we’d have to take a train or two buses to Putna. The train would also take us to Suceava, and from there we’d take a second train to Putna. After a very long delay, we finally got on the train, and after the second train’s delay, we finally got to Putna, making it day 1.

Via Transilvanica, Bucovina, day 1: Putna – Sucevita

A few stats: about 17 km, about 350 m elevation gain, 7 hours with breaks. Putna stamp from Putna Monastery and Sucevita stamp from Sucevita Monastery.

A shorter first day, mostly on forest roads, with heavy packs and no rest from the train working against us. Beautiful nature, both monasteries visited, and one small disaster with my phone screen. We camped at a campsite still under construction, with working toilets and showers.

Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 1 article.

Via Transilvanica, Bucovina, day 2: Sucevita – Vatra Moldovitei

A few stats: about 22 km, about 1167 m elevation gain, about 9:30 hours with breaks. We took the Ciumarna stamp from near borna 30, and the Vatra Moldovitei stamp from the bar across the street from La Banditi.

A tougher climb, lots of berries, a first cow herd with guard dogs that did their job without bothering us, and a small fall on gravel. We camped at La Banditi, with two very sweet dogs, and this was the day the french fries craving began.

Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 2 article.

Via Transilvanica, Bucovina, day 3: Vatra Moldovitei – Sadova

A few stats: about 24 km, about 1032 m elevation gain, about 9:30 hours with breaks. We took the Sadova stamp from Pensiunea Alvy Iezer.

My favorite day of the whole trip. A long, tiring climb through forest and pasture, but the kind of day that makes you want to come back and do it again, friendly cows, gorgeous shepherd dogs, and one of the warmest interactions of the trip with a family living on the mountain. We camped in a locals courtyard.

Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 3 article.

Via Transilvanica, Bucovina, day 4: Sadova – Fundu Moldovei

A few stats: about 10 km, about 330 m elevation gain, about 3:30 hours with breaks (from Garmin data). We got the Fundu Moldovei stamp from Braserie FM.

A short, easy, relaxing day by comparison, breakfast, a false alarm on wildlife, and an afternoon of actual rest at the campsite. We camped at de Vuurplaats.

Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 4 article.

Via Transilvanica, Bucovina, day 5: Fundu Moldovei – Cabana Gigi Ursu

A few stats: about 29 km, about 1005 m elevation gain, about 9 hours with breaks (from Garmin data). We took the Pasul Mestecanis stamp from Pensiunea Luceafarul.

The only rainy day of the trip, and the day I really started noticing how much of this route is road rather than trail. A nice stretch walking between Christmas trees was the highlight. We camped at Cabana Gigi Ursu, with two dogs and a cat.

Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 5 article.

Via Transilvanica, Bucovina, day 6: Cabana Gigi Ursu – Dorna Candrenilor

A few stats: about 31 km, about 820 m elevation gain, about 9 hours with breaks (from Garmin data). We took the Vatra Dornei stamp from Pensiunea Elenuca and the Poiana Negrii stamp from Casuta bunicilor.

A strange start with a trapped bird and a dog that didn’t want to let us go, then a steep climb by a ski slope that wasn’t as bad as expected. Back on the road again after that. We camped at Pensiunea Lena, with excellent jam waiting the next morning.

Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 6 article.

Via Transilvanica, Bucovina, day 7: Dorna Candrenilor – Lunca Ilvei

A few stats: about 36 km, about 612 m elevation gain, about 11 hours with breaks (from Garmin data). We took the Lunca Ilvei stamp from La Avram.

The day with too little nature and too much asphalt, plus a funeral and a boar encounter that had us whistling and shaking the bear bell. We camped at La Avram, which made up for the day with genuine hospitality.

Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 7 article.

Via Transilvanica, Highlands, day 8: Lunca Ilvei – Tasuleasa Social, version B

A few stats: about 18 km, about 800 m elevation gain, about 10:30 hours with breaks. We took the Tasuleasa Social stamp from Tasuleasa Social.

A steep, road-heavy day redeemed by Poiana lui Galan and a warm welcome from the Galan family. Arriving at Tasuleasa Social the night before their marathon event was a much colder welcome. We camped at Tasuleasa Social.

Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 8 article.

Via Transilvanica, Highlands, day 9: Tasuleasa Social – Bistrita Bargaului

A few stats: about 25 km, about 565 m elevation gain, about 8:30 hours with breaks. We took the Bistrita Bargaului stamp from Atelier de paine traditionala.

A long, sunny day that crossed paths with the Tasuleasa half-marathon, lovely encouragement from strangers and runners, one rude moment from race volunteers, and a good meal at Valea Strajii. We camped at Atelier de paine traditionala, easily one of the warmest hosts of the trip.

Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 9 article.

Via Transilvanica, Highlands, day 10: Bistrita Bargaului – Dorolea – Bistrita

A few stats: about 33 km, about 762 m elevation gain, about 10:30 hours with breaks. We took the Dorolea stamp from Pensiunea Elis and the Bistrita stamp from Amaretto Caffe.

The final push, more road than we wanted, a warning about shepherd dogs that didn’t amount to much, a sheep herd, a heartwarming offer of chocolate biscuits from a family in Dorolea, and a very welcome stranger who wished us well right when we needed it. We finished with a burger and fries and a hotel bed instead of a tent, then took the train home the next morning.

Want the full story of this day, with more photos? Read the day 10 article.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much did you pay for camping?

We paid between 35 and 85 lei (two adults and a tent). There were also places where we camped for free. When we camped for free, we would eat at that location, so we’d contribute in some financial way as well. If the place didn’t serve food and we camped for free, we’d leave some money so it would be fair to both parties.

How much did you paid for food?

For breakfast we paid between 30 and 40 lei per person. For lunch, 50 lei per person. And for dinner, between 30 and 50 lei per person.

There was also one place where we ate and could leave as much as we felt was fair.

What did you packed?

Too much food. The plan from home was to do this on a lower budget, so we wanted to camp with our own tent and bring our own food. We did camp, but we also bought food along the way.

So we packed our tent, sleeping pads, sleeping bags, and a tent hammer. We had a gas canister, a pot, two forks, one knife, two mugs, and lots of food and snacks. We had 2 medical kits, one with bandages and one with pills. We had sunscreen, as well as mosquito and tick spray. We had deodorant and natural soap.

We each had a water bladder as well as a water canister, our rain jackets, and 3 sets of clothing. Headlamps. A notebook, a book, and the Via Transilvanica booklet to collect the stamps. A poop shovel and toilet paper, toothpaste and toothbrushes. Wet wipes.

Two bear sprays. Dog treats. Treking poles.

Our phones, a camera, a charger, 3 power banks to charge our devices, and extra batteries for the headlamps.

I don’t think we had anything else.

A few stats: about 33 km, about 762 m elevation gain, about 10:30 hours with breaks. We took the Dorolea stamp from Pensiunea Elis and the Bistrita stamp from Amaretto Caffe.

We hadn’t decided how we wanted to do this, only Dorolea, or Dorolea and Bistrita. We said we’d make the final call at Dorolea.

After waking up and enjoying the cat that was at the place we camped, we started our hike. Once again, people would just wish us a good hike, so nice.

At a spring stop we met 2 more hikers, I don’t remember where they were from. The woman had done the section we were about to do before, and warned us about the possibility of meeting huge shepherd dogs. The shepherd is able to keep the dogs under control, but she wanted us to be ready in case we ran into them. I also knew about this possible encounter from the guide. After a chat, and wishing each other a good hike, we went on.

We met a cute dog at another stop, and then out in a field we met the Italian group again. We did see one sheep herd, a bit further away, and a smaller one closer by. Only one dog came over, and it didn’t bark. We ended up somewhere in the middle of the Italian group, they were a big group, 20-something people.

We got to chat with one of the women, so nice, but in the end everyone went at their own pace.

When we got to Dorolea, we were taking a break in a park, and the mother of a family with 3 kids came over to offer us chocolate biscuits. We’d just eaten a croissant each, so we politely refused, but it was such a heartwarming gesture that it stayed with us.

We decided to continue on to Bistrita, so after even more road walking, we ended up in a forest, such a nice break from the road. When we came out of the forest, we chatted a bit with two women before continuing our hike.

We were now back on asphalt, on the sidewalk, and I was so done with walking on sidewalks, when a kind man driving by stopped his car, rolled down his window, and wished us a good hike. That was the push I needed to finish the last bit. Gestures like that, people taking the time out of what they’re doing to wish you a good journey, are what give you the little pushes you need when you feel so tired and so done with the day.

We finished the day with a burger and french fries, and instead of camping in Bistrita, we stayed at a hotel.

The next morning we took the train back to our home city, and with that, our 10 days on Via Transilvanica ended.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Stupid Nature Hikes (@stupid_nature_hikes)

A few stats: about 25 km, about 565 m elevation gain, about 8:30 hours with breaks. We took the Bistrita Bargaului stamp from Atelier de paine traditionala.

We walked a lot in the sun.

The day started very nicely, as we waited a bit to see the start of the race, we saw the start of the 10 km cross. Then we started our hike, which for part of the way overlapped with where the half marathon would finish. We wished good luck to the runners we met near the starting line, who were waiting for their start time, and we continued our hike.

We met two locals, such nice people, we talked a bit with them and got some encouraging words. We also met two German hikers, and a bit further along, another local we exchanged a few words with.

We also got to cheer on some runners as they got closer to the finish and we were on the same trail. It felt so nice, to feel part of a community. I didn’t expect them to answer or talk to us, since it was hot and they’d been running for a while, but they also encouraged us and wished us a good hike. It was so nice.

Then we got to the hydration station, where the Tasuleasa volunteers made us feel unwelcome. We were already standing to the side of the trail to leave the runners plenty of room, since we know how hard running is, but instead of a greeting or a kind word, all they said was for us to get out of the way. I thought that was pretty rude, especially since we were already at the edge of the trail.

Anyway, we stood there a bit longer to cheer on a few more runners before getting back on our trail.

We stopped at the Valea Strajii restaurant, where we met the Italian group again, and where we had tripe soup, very good, and a meat platter. Then back into the sun for quite a while, until we got close to Bistrita Bargaului, where once again we met kind people who gave us encouraging words and stopped what they were doing to talk to us.

We also met two bikers from Constanta, doing Via Transilvanica bit by bit. This time they wanted to get to Bistrita Bargaului.

We camped at Atelier de paine traditionala, where the woman of the house was so nice, she made us hot pies, and the next morning she made us sandwiches. Her kids were great too, the boy (well…man) made us coffee, and we got to talk a bit more with the girl (well…woman), who’d done the half marathon at Tasuleasa. All in all, such a wholesome experience, and we want to go back when she has a bread workshop.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Stupid Nature Hikes (@stupid_nature_hikes)

A few stats: about 18 km, about 800 m elevation gain, about 10:30 hours with breaks. We took the Tasuleasa Social stamp from Tasuleasa Social.

Once again I felt like we were walking too much on roads. There was a steep uphill, and even the poor horses were struggling. We met up with the Italian group again, and they went ahead of us. We got some encouraging words from the people with the horse-drawn cart. After the hill, the landscape was indeed beautiful. We took breaks in the shade. Because we took version B, we ended up in Poiana lui Galan, where we took a long break, talked with the Galan family, had some very yummy pies, and a tasty green bean dish.

When we arrived at Tasuleasa Social, because they had the Marathon event the next day, we were pretty much ignored, and made to feel like we were in the way, like how dare we hike Via Transilvanica when they had a running event on. I was hoping to take a hot shower and wash our clothes there, but it didn’t work out that way. Well, it is what it is, we took a cold shower the next morning, as the water came straight from the fountain.

We camped at Tasuleasa Social.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Stupid Nature Hikes (@stupid_nature_hikes)

A few stats: about 36 km, about 612 m elevation gain, about 11 hours with breaks (from Garmin data). We took the Lunca Ilvei stamp from La Avram.

This was the day with too little nature. We walked so much on asphalt that I just didn’t understand why I was doing this. This is not how I like to hike.

Two things happened on this day: we saw a funeral, and we saw boars.

A car was driving on the road and stopped when it saw us, to let us know that up ahead, in the direction we were headed, there were two mother boars with piglets, so to be careful. So the whistling began, along with shaking the bear bell and yelling, so the boars would know we were human. We saw the mother boars on the road, gave them time to decide which side they wanted to go to and get into the forest. We only saw the piglets running uphill into the forest.

We camped at La Avram, such a nice experience. We talked with him, had dinner and breakfast there; the scrambled eggs were so good, and we also got tea.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Stupid Nature Hikes (@stupid_nature_hikes)

A few stats: about 31 km, about 820 m elevation gain, about 9 hours with breaks (from Garmin data). We took the Vatra Dornei stamp from Pensiunea Elenuca and the Poiana Negrii stamp from Casuta bunicilor.

We started the day early, and it began a bit strange, first we saw a bird trapped in a car (luckily the car was unlocked, so we were able to let it out), then we saw a deer next to a horse and some cows. Then one of the dogs from the place we’d stayed started to followed us, so we had to scare him off so he’d go back, which was sad, since we’d just played with the dogs the night before and that morning. But it’s best to make the dogs turn back rather than let them follow you, since they might get lost or attacked by other dogs.

The steep climb next to the ski slope in Vatra Dornei, actually wasn’t that bad. We took breaks, but it didn’t feel bad at all. After we reached the top of the hill, though, we were once again on a road, with cars passing from time to time. Luckily there’s also a forest section on this day, where you can take a break from the road and enjoy the nature fully.

We also met two new hikers, one from Cluj and one from Bistrita, I think they wanted to go as far as Bistrita. We got to talk with them during a rest while we both ate.

We camped at Pensiunea Lena, which was very nice and peaceful. It was funny that where we camped, the owner had white cows, and across the road, another owner had black cows. We also got breakfast the next day, and the jam was absolutely amazing, tasted like Christmas.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Stupid Nature Hikes (@stupid_nature_hikes)

A few stats: about 29 km, about 1005 m elevation gain, about 9 hours with breaks (from Garmin data). We took the Pasul Mestecanis stamp from Pensiunea Luceafarul.

This was the day it rained, the only day we got rain, and it wasn’t pouring, so it was fine.

This was also the day I realized how much we’re walking on roads. Once again, it’s not just asphalt, it’s a combination of asphalt until we leave town, gravel road, and forest road, but wide enough for cars. I really don’t like hiking on gravel road, since it really hurts the soles of my feet. But it’s still a nice segment.

We met up again with the family, talked more, and were all about to finish the day in the same place. We also met four more hikers, I don’t remember where from, or how far they were going. But we didn’t see our hiking friends again, and wouldn’t see them again, since they were finishing their segment in Vatra Dornei.

We also wouldn’t meet the family again, as they wanted to finish their hike in Poiana Negrii.

The one thing I liked about this day was walking between Christmas trees, there were so many of them, on both sides of the path.

We camped at Cabana Gigi Ursu, where there were 2 very cute and friendly dogs, as well as a very cute cat.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Stupid Nature Hikes (@stupid_nature_hikes)

A few stats: about 10 km, about 330 m elevation gain, about 3:30 hours with breaks (from Garmin data). We got the Fundu Moldovei stamp from Braserie FM.

We started the day planning to do the entire segment, to Pasul Mestecanis. We went for breakfast at a guesthouse, where we saw the four hikers from Bucuresti who’d been on the same train as us. The butter and jam were really good.

We met our hiking friends again, chatted a bit, and agreed that the previous day had been the hardest so far. After our chat, we each went at our own pace.

I also like it when people stop their cars to ask where we’re going, how it’s going, where we started, and then wish us a good hike. It’s just so wholesome, and this wasn’t the first time it happened, but I do remember the car that stopped here to talk with us a bit.

So after some nice landscapes, a nice break on a hill in the shade of a tree, and the decision to make it a short day, we got up and hiked to Fundu Moldovei. We met our trail friends again, and one of them thought they saw something far ahead on four paws, so out came the whistling. We didn’t see any bears or other wild animals, though there were lots of berries and a river.

We camped at a campsite, warm shower, dish soap, all the amenities. There was also a market nearby, so cold beer, ice cream, and plenty of rest. We camped at de Vuurplaats.

This was also the day we met a family with two girls doing the trail; they were from Constanta. We also heard about a big group of Italian hikers.

So, a relaxing day: nap, drinking lots of water, and just resting.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Stupid Nature Hikes (@stupid_nature_hikes)